Sitting in the Parisian department store, Galeries Lafayette, this past Sunday while perusing directory pamphlet-inspired invitations, celebrities, editors and fashion insiders eagerly awaited what the characteristically unorthodox, Paris-Couture-Week-virgin Vetements had in store. Perhaps a press-attracting effort on behalf of the Chambre Syndicale, Vetements exhibited their 55-look Spring 2017 ready-to-wear collection which was a striking dissimilarity from the expensive and over-the-top gowns and garments traditionally seen. Making their not-so-haute-couture installment even more revolutionary, the label received some assistance – from 18 other labels, to be exact, including the once relevant Juicy Couture. Ranging from Mackintosh to Manolo Blahnik, Demna Gvasalia and his squad of semi-anonymous designers sought out labels who specialized in their respective niche. It’s a concept that makes sense. As a consumer, if you're searching for the best jeans, you look to Levi's. As a designer, why not follow suit? Taking 3 months off of their standard production time by advancing the show date from September to July, Demna believed that the collaborations would alleviate the effects of the time constraint. Instead, it proved increasingly challenging with designers scurrying towards completion.
However, what arose from the anxiety was a collection unlike any other - a collection that managed to shock while remaining utterly coherent alongside the rebellious label's iconic aesthetic. Insipid in personal appearance, models debuted over-the-top ensembles featuring haphazard buttoning, metallic waist-high boots complete with pockets and Canada Goose puffer jackets. Pants were either cropped, constricting near the groin or accompanied by un-looped belts. If a garment wasn’t one-piece or oversized, it was sheer or shrunken.
VETEMENTSxCARHARTT A photo posted by VETEMENTS (@vetements_official) on
Although most of the brands, such as Champion and Hanes, are readily available to the everyday buyer, don’t necessarily expect the collaboration to be. A dream-shattering combination of high price point and popular demand will make the collection hard to get one’s hands on - not that we were ready to slide back into a Juicy velour tracksuit just yet, even if it's Vetements.
What do you think of Vetements' SS17 collection? Do you think it belongs on the Paris Couture Week runway?
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